Zooming through the desert

We are now in Antafogasta, the second largest city in Chile. We leave tomorrow for Chañaral, a small town close to Parque National Pan de Azucar, where we hope to camp and hike for a few days (even the stadtfrau has had enough of the city for a while.) The climate is nice here, but we´ve about had it with sand and sun (no pity, please) and are ready to move on to the forrest. Our next stop is still in the desert, but more of a mediterranean climate (so says Lonely Planet) and soon after we´ll be in wine country. Hmmmm, wonder what we´ll do there....

The ride between Iquique and Antafogasta was particularly beautiful - the whole way along the coast. We have had fun visiting fishing ports and watching the sea lions and pelicans eat the fish guts thrown out by the fishermen. Yum.

Update: We didn't go to Pan de Azucar - it seemed too much of a hassle just to find a campsite in the desert. So, we have landed in in La Serena, where all the fresh seafood has started to catch up with Matthias (he has quite an upset stomach) I wonder if he's faking it so he doesn't have to go to the beach for the New Year's festivities or even stay up until midnight. Anyway, the nice people at our hostal are having a barbeque, so I won't be alone either way. La Serena is probably the nicest Chilean city we have seen so far; we haven't been to the beach yet, but the town has a lovely plaza and some great colonial architecture. And, it's not as run down as some of the cities we've seen - probably because it's a top tourist destination.

On the 1st or 2nd, we're heading to the Elqui Valley, where they are supposed to have some nice camping and hiking areas, so probably no internet updates for a while.

Hope everyone has a happy new year

Pictures!

For some reason I was having trouble uploading photos to this website. These are from Lake Titicaca and Isla Del Sol. Until I figure it out how to do this better, the pictures are in Yahoo photos...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jrosenyc/album?.dir=55fb&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jrosenyc/my_photos

Feliz Hanukkah y Navidad

Hello from Arica, Chile. We took a little bit longer than expected to get here as we took a couple of "sick days" in La Paz. Matthias and I both got sick from something we ate in Coroico, and we were afraid to make the 8-hour bus ride to Arica while we were still under the weather. Matthias even had a hard time with the ride up from Coroico - he had a fever and could barely sit up straight. I was okay, and we´re both much better now.We just spent an extra day in La Paz to be sure. And, fortunately, our hotel had cable TV and a comfortable bed, so we recuperated in style, watching movies on HBO and CNN World. Hope those of you in NYC were able to cope with the transit strike (and to think, I was worried about being stuck in La Paz following the Bolivian elections because of strikes or road blockades!) It feels a little strange not to have been in NYC - unlike the blackout of 2003 or blizzard of 1996 (was it?) I won´t get to say "I was there when....."

Back to Chile. The bus ride from La Paz was comfortable and nice. We passed over the Chilean border at about 5,000 Meters above sea level, seeing snow-capped peaks and lakes filled with flamingos. Then down through the dessert. They served breakfast and lunch on the bus and even showed movies (if anyone saw "The Others" with Nicole Kidman, please tell me the point - I fell asleep toward then end. Were they dead the whole time or what?) We arrived in Arica around 2PM and found our friendly hotel (yes, prices have gone up to US$16 per night.) The town is nice, right on the Pacific, with some cute beaches and rocky coastlines. Fortunately for me, there aren´t too many hiking opportunities, but there is a hill (I would call it a mountain) that we´re going to climb today for the views and to visit a Spanish fortress on the top. I´m gearing up for it.

We´re planning to stay here until Sunday. We figure that a bus ride on the 25th will give us something to do that day when everything is closed. Next stop is Iquique, another city on the Pacific coast about four hours away.

Election Day

Well, we decided to stay in Coroico for another few days, wait out the election, and head back to La Paz and then Chile next week. The weather here is pretty perfect, though it usually rains in the morning, it is sunny and warm by noon and cool and comforable in the evenings. Matthias said that if we headed any further down toward the Amazon basin it would be uncomforably hot, so I'm happy to stay here.

There is no bus service today because of the election, but I can't notice any difference otherwise. I haven't found out much from local people about the race, but there is some info on bbc world at http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/4531446.stm.

Yesterday, we took a hike down toward the river. I say toward the river because I was too chicken to go all the way down (about 500 meters down.) Yes, after two hours of hiking downhill and going probably more than two-thirds of the way, I begged Matthias to let me turn around and go back for fear that I wouldn't be able to make it back up. To his credit, Matthias was sympathetic, if not completely understanding, and we climbed slowly back up the hill, after which I jumped in the hotel pool. Oh yes, we switched hotels and took a more "budget" location for the past few days. This one's only about $9 including breakfast, has an awesome view, and is more secluded and quieter. As of last night, we were the only tourists in the hotel. The night before, we shared the hotel with a young French couple.

Speaking of young, though there are not many foreign tourists at all here, practically all are below the age of 22. I guess that's when most people travel to places like this. I'm not sure whether to feel lucky that I'm doing it at this age or to wish I had done it back then. Either way, I now realize that when the Lonely Planet book says "an easy 1 hour hike" they are talking to an energetic 20-year-old, not an out-of-shape 38-year-old. And then, as Matthias would say, sitting in front of the computer at an Internet cafe isn't helping me to get in shape. Yeah, yeah, guess I better go hike back to the hotel.

Next entry should be from Chile, where, hopefully, I'll be able to post some pictures.

Me Encanta Bolivia

Bolivia continues to awe and inspire - it's beautiful! We have decided that we should probably slow down a bit and take it easy if we're to avoid burning out too early. Okay, but for Matthias, relaxing means waking up at 6AM and heading out on an all day hike by 9:00! So, I sent him off by himself today, to climb a mountain for some pretty views, while I use the Internet and laze on the hotel terrace. Unfortunately, it's raining today, but the weather here changes mighty quickly, so it could be sunny by noon.

We are in Coroico, a beautiful resort town north of La Paz. We have splurged on our hotel (US $12.50 per night!) but have beautiful room with a REAL hot/warm shower, huge terrace overlooking the mountains, and a swimming pool with greenish water. Wish I could share pictures, but they probably wouldn't do justice to the scenery. Each morning, the fog fills the valleys, then rises up to cover the town, which is on a plateau. (one good reason to get up at 6AM is to witness this.) The ride down here was an adventure in itself - down what's known as the world's most dangerous road, which is a dirt road only wide enough for one car. The scenery was fantastic, but I was a bit too scared to enjoy it. Going up should be better, as uphill traffic gets to take the inside track when passing cars/buses/trucks coming down. I wish I could describe this better.

Yesterday, we hiked along a mountainside to some cascades about 5km away. The waterfalls weren't too fantastic, but the walk was wonderful. We passed through jungle-like areas, saw a hummingbird, butterflies, toucans, coca fields and spectacular valley views. We also had two stray dogs as guides...they traveled with us to the end of the trail and back. Minor injuries to report: I walked into a rock and got a monster bruise on my leg (duh!); Matthias got bit by one (or more) mountain mosquito(s) and his arms are covered with itchy welts. Oh, and my bottom lip has sprouted an unprecedented number of herpes sores (probably from exposure to the sun.) Otherwise, we're feeling fine. I can't blame the altitude anymore for my lack of ability to hike up a hill without stopping to rest...we've descended to an altitude of 1750 meters above sea level (okay, guess that's still pretty high.)

Not sure what our next step will be. Either back to La Paz for a bus to Arica, Chile, or down further into the valley. Guess we'll decide tonight over a bottle of wine on the hotel terrace. :-)

Thanks to everyone for your fun comments and emails!

Lake Titicaca

I'm going to try the first entry from abroad - excuse the spelling, grammar and punctuation as the keyboard here is the pits. I also don't think I'll be able to post any pictures until I find a better connection

Lake Titicaca and Isla Del Sol surpassed our expectations. We arrived in La Paz on 6 Dec and left immediately for Copacabana on Lake Titicaca - a 3.5 hour bus ride, including a ferry across the lake (passengers on one boat, the bus on the other.) Tried to sleep during the bus ride, but the huge bumps made it impossible. Plus, when we got to Copacabana, we both had to deal with altitude sickness (all better now.)

After two nights in Copacabana, we struck out on our first hike with our HEAVY backpacks. I did okay at first, but started to fade in the middle. Fortunately, we were found by a kid who offered to row us to the island. It took him about 1.5 hours and cost about $6 US. When we got to the island, we camped at the bottom of the hill where the boat left us off (there was no way I was hiking up to the top at that point!)

The night was cold, but the next morning was gorgeous and sunny, and we hiked up the mountain to a great hotel overlooking the sea (US$5 per night). Obviously, we decided to stay two nights. There are no cars on the island, but lots of donkeys to carry supplies up and down from the boats. And the scenery is like looking at the Agean Sea from Crete, only less developed, so maybe even more beautiful. The next day, we took a long day hike (sans backpacks) around the island to see the inca ruins and admire the beauty It was fantastic. The days are hot, because we are so close to the sun, but the nights are cold. We've been going to bed early (Matthias' regular bedtime) because there's not much to do on the island after sundown.

Now we're back in Copacabana and have our first day of rain. Tomorrow we leave for La Paz and then to Coroico in the Yungas (fog forest of the Andes.) Will probably do another update next week.

The Adventure Begins (tomorrow)

We finally made it to the end of our stint in Florida and will hop our flight to La Paz (via Miami) tomorrow - December 5th. Stay tuned for periodic updates on the trip - hopefully I'll be able to add pictures along the way as well.

In the meantime, here are some more pictures from Florida, including a couple of cranes in the neighborhood, the sunset festival at Siesta Key, and our bike ride to the park on Lido Key.

Family Time

Some photos of the time spent with the family in Florida.



Matthias, dad and pelican on Longboat Key

Mom, dad and Josh at the Ritz Carlton in Naples

Eating the meal Matthias cooked for us

Mom, dad, and Matthias on the beach on Longboat Key

Natural Florida

Still waiting for December 5th to arrive, when we leave for La Paz. Meanwhile, we are keeping busy exploring the Sarasota area - mostly by bike. Last week, we rode out to Myakka State Park (in lieu of driving all the way down to the everglades) to see some gators, which, at last, we did. The park was great, as was the ride itself - about 15 miles each way. Here we are picnicing at upper Myakka Lake.



We have also found some wildlife closer to home, including a multitude of birds (pelicans, vultures, etc.) closer to home, and an aligator in one of the lagoons of the housing development.

Kiss Me, I'm a Floridian

I didn't have the feeling when we sold the apartment, on my last day at work, or driving down the Jersey Turnpike. But when the nice woman at the DMV tore up my NYS drivers license, and handed me my shiny new Florida license, I experienced a strange sense of loss. At least she saved the old photo and gave it to me.

We've been here just over a week, with just two more to go. So far, we have explored Sarasota on bikes, riding everywhere - to the grocery store down the street and through the downtown area and over the causeway to the beach.

Earlier this week, Stu came to visit for a couple of days, and we enjoyed time by the pool, dinner at the local Amish restaurant (strangely, Sarasota has a sizeable Amish and Menonite communities), a barbeque at the beach, and yes, even Bingo at the Meadows community center.

The weather has been great so far, but they say a tropical storm (Gamma) is heading our way. I hope it doesn't interfere with anyone's Thanksgiving holiday travel plans, or worse. At least we're already packed for any evacuation orders.

On the Road

I always loved the reaction people had when I told them about our travel plans. “You’re traveling around the world? How wonderful.” And then, “WHAT? You’re driving down to Florida with your PARENTS?? ARE YOU CRAZY?!”

Actually, there’s not a lot to report on the trip down. The drive went smoothly, even with the 20+ year-old trailer carrying the motorcycle and bikes following behind us (each creak made me nervous.) We also didn’t get to see my uncle Lou in Maryland because he was in the hospital undergoing tests, but we’re all grateful that he is on the mend and planning to come down for Thanksgiving. We did get to see some nice foliage all the way down to the Carolinas. This picture is of a sculpture on display at the Sarasota marina, not particularly interesting in itself, but we passed it twice on a trailer on the way down here. Funny that it ended up in the same place as we did.

We’ve now been in Sarasota for two days. My parents’ apartment is nice and – at least for the time being – seems to be big enough for all of us. I'll see if I can find some interesting things to write about. I know, it’s not La Paz or Tierra del Fuego, but it is our lives.

The Big Send Off

I can’t believe it’s been a week since I left work. I’ve been meaning to write about my last day for a while – it was fantastic. My friends at work gave me a great party, said some beautiful things, and made me feel really special. Seems like everyone should resign now and then, just to get that kind of boost. We already do nice things for people’s anniversaries at work (5 year, 10 year, etc.), but maybe if we thought about what it would be like if that person left, we might use those occasions to say them.

Anyway, many thanks to those who made my last day so special, with gifts and sweets and fun! I can’t name everyone, but particular thanks to Cynthia, who orchestrated everything and completely floored me with her speech; Diane and Vicki for their poems (included here – to prop myself up even further); Keith for lunch and some great parting words; Ruth for her thoughtful gift and for being Ruth; Amy for the scarf and for making a special appearance (I’ll still never forgive myself for her lack of a fitting send off); Angie for the wine, and everyone else for everything. The book is hilarious and made a great read during the ride down to Florida (more on that later), the chocolates are delicious and I already used part of the gift certificate to buy clothes for our adventure days in S. America. I’m saving the rest for shoes.

Congrats to Steve for running the marathon. Even if he didn’t win.

And here are the poems:

Diane's masterpiece:

Ode to Judy Rose

Our darling dear Judy, whatever shall we do?
You’re leaving us soon and we sure will miss you.
But let’s put in perspective your journey from here,
And give us this chance to reflect most sincere.

Your fundraising skills will surely be missed
You get us our grants without getting us dissed.
You’re early to rise and sometimes the last one to leave
While you work mighty hard, you must have tricks up your sleeve
Because everyone loves you, your our JUDY ROSE
And you’re such a good writer you might as well snub your nose
We’ve all learned so much from your humor and grace
But your jokes on Keith Corso sure do take the cake.

I hope you’re so proud of the good work you’ve done
To help us protect the rights we’ve fought hard for and won.
We are blessed to have such a warrior on our side
Thanks for taking us on this wonderful ride
For sharing your kindness, your fairness, your smiles
For being our teammate through hard rocky miles

And speaking of which, exciting adventures await!
You and Mathias are bound for a glorious fate.
You’ve shared with us all your desires and dreams
We see them unfolding like sparkling streams
I picture you perched on ancient paths in Peru
Biking up trails toward a sky clear and blue
We see you breeze by on a sailboat at sea
Or picking ripe fruit from a near kiwi tree

Awaking to songbirds on Mongolian plains
Boarding buses and airplanes and sexy old trains
Backpacking wilderness, canteen in hand
Be sure to bring fruit ‘cause that trail mix gets bland
Drink plenty of water and don’t forget a hat
Bring matches and compass and learn to cook bat
Take pictures and send them to us here back home
And remember we’re thinking of you wherever you roam

If I end on a sad note I know that I’ll cry
So I’m going to give it the old college try
We wish you all the happiness in the whole wide wide world
On all your adventures that are yet to unfold
Life takes us on journeys from the day we are born
We applaud as you grab it right by the horns
You better keep us appraised, I mean, what else would you think?
And the next time you’re in town we are meeting for a drink.

Mine (cleaned up for the "g" crowd):

I’m really quite bad at heartfelt farewells
So get ready for silliness and rhyme
As I prepare myself for my new vagabond life
And leave you all a second time

Though this time it’s different, from the last time around
When I used to work on the fourth floor
Though I knew lots of people, you development folks
Are the ones that I knew least before

But getting to know you, has been great fun, although
I’m still wary to take a real stance
To the question Ferraro would ask now and then:
Who’s cooler: Devo or Finance?

Such an intimate group, full of style, class and charm
And also, need I mention, such pride
So in saying goodbye, I’ll address each of you
Then who’s coolest? Well you can decide.

Diana I wish we hung out more, but with
your commute that is no easy trick
But it’s been fun doing mailings and dishing with you
About Carly and Sonny and Ric.

And Sylvia, so wise, so friendly and kind
Though, to some, you may seem quite aloof
I’ve loved our chats, your cakes, your advice, and more but
Most of all what I love, is your roof!

Summer, we didn’t have much time to bond,
But we did have an instant rapport
And with new staff coming on, you’ll be glad not to be
The new kid on the block anymore

Now Ferraro, what a riot, a real freaky chick
you’re fun but can be prone to panics
but our friendship was bonded when I brought you the cure
whose name is Satina Von Sanex

Dear Carmina, so sweet but now tired of dealing
with donors and all of their wealth
but I’m sorry to say you’ll think that was a breeze
When compared to the Department of Health!

And Steve, you’re my favorite at whom to poke fun
Such a quirky and affable bloke
I’d like to be kind, but because of your ego,
ifI say something too nice I’ll just choke.

Vivian, my dear, you’re so special to me
Some advice, while retirement’s near
As you look forward to leaving, till then don’t forget
To enjoy the time with your friends here

Cynthia, with writing and style you’re the best
Who better than I to report
So why not use your well crafted words to stay thanks
For your stalwart and steadfast support

Now Keith, what to say, you’ve taught me so much
You’re a strange one, but real fun to know
And I know that behind all the tricks and the jokes
Is the ultimate fundraising pro

A transition’s now needed, but I’m out of ideas
My mind spins with anxious confusion,
Just like writing proposals, the hardest parts are the
Damn Introduction and the conclusion

Now I’ve got the answer, I just won’t conclude
No need for all this frustration
It’s not like I need to use this to get funds
Or a performance evaluation

But I do have to say, you’re a fantastic bunch
And as a department, you rule
You are special, and fun, and brilliant and sweet
And yes, Diane, way freaking cool!

A Magic Carpet Ride

Emotions running high. After a sleepless night (racing thoughts, but a pleasant anxiety) I set off for what will most likely be my last bike ride to work. I was listening to my Walkman (only on the car-free bike path, mom) and the tape I popped in this morning was the one I made of potential “wedding dance songs.” When Billy Joel’s “You’re My Home” came on, strangely enough, a tear sprang to my eye, and I don’t think it was because of the strong winds. I wished I had held out for that song (instead of that hokey Disney tune) although it’s not great to dance to, it’s one of my favorites, and it really seems to describe how our married life feels. I then began to think of other past, though insignificant, regrets including “I wish I kept my car one more year, I should have kept in touch with that nice family from Japan, and I wish I had invited more of my PPNYC friends to our wedding...”

Then the fifth song on the tape started to play:

I can show you the world
Shining, shimmering, splendid…

The water works were in full force, and definitely not due to the wind. As I listened to the words, I wondered whether I knew at the time that I would be quitting my job – at that time a new job – and starting an incredible new life.

Unbelievable sights, Indescribable feeling...

No one to tell us no, or where to go...

I have to admit, I rewound the tape and listened a couple more times.
A Whole New World. Not a bad decision after all.

Here we go...

I thought that now was as good a time as any to join the 21st century and start a blog. As I try to figure out how this works, we are preparing for our trip around the world, so perhaps I'll comment on some of our preparation activity, the emotions that come with them, and whatever else springs to mind.