Monday, May 21, 2018

Greece to Germany.....again

It's been once again a long time between blog entries, but since we haven't ventured to any new countries over the past few months (years?) I didn't feel inspired to write.  But then I went back to read a post from about 10 years ago (the last time we left Greece with functioning bikes) and enjoyed reading it so much that it inspired me to provide an update.  We start (again) in Crete, where Matthias and I rented the same apartment as last year - in Pitsidia.
Another sunset from our terrace in Crete

Hanging out in Pitsidia. 
The Christmas package from Matthias' mom included Russian Vodka. 
I don't remember taking this picture!

Although we rented our apartment from November through March (so we would have a "home" for the entire winter), we spent a good portion of that time away from Crete. First, we took an extended trip to the USA to visit family and friends - Matthias came for one month; I stayed for two.  Highlights included a family trip to Universal Orlando, complete with virtual thrill rides, a couple of roller coasters and general living-it-up with the Davidsburg cousins! (Unfortunately, it was too cold for the water park when we were there, but my mom and I, as Florida residents, got free entry for an extra two days, so we went back later in the month to splash down the water slides.)  Matthias and I also got some things done, like doctors/dentist appointments (Colonoscopy #1 for me!) and cleaning out my mom's garage. After Matthias went back to Greece, the gals - mom, Laurene and I - made the most of our time together going to theater and trying new places to eat. I also made a run down to Miami Beach to visit Stu and Lorenzo while they were staying at a Spa there (thanks, guys!)  In February, we drove up to Atlanta to attend Iliana's (cousin Danny's Daughter's) Bat Mitzvah weekend spectacular – more family fun! And finally, I drove back up north with Laurene and got to spend a few days in NYC with Stu and Lorenzo, have dinner with Andrew, and catch up with a few other friends. Whew!

Matthias and Maju in Florida

Family in Hogsmeade (Or was it Diagon Alley?)

That's more my style - hanging out at Mo's Bar in Simpsons Land, Universal


Back at Universal with Mom


Catching up with old friends in NYC!
Unfortunately, while I was out galavanting in Florida, Matthias was feeling under the weather back in Crete.  After I returned to Greece he continued to suffer symptoms (headaches and stomach pains), as well as frustration with the language barrier and the distance to the nearest clinic (70 km away in Heraklion). So he decided to go to Germany for more tests. After a few weeks of diagnostics, they were able to identify and treat him for a stomach infection. During those few weeks, I fended for myself in Pitsidia – shopping at the vegetable markets (something I always depended on Matthias for), taking long walks/bike rides and becoming a bit more social in town. Harking back to the time when I used to travel solo, I noted how people are a lot more friendly/outgoing when you're on your own, making it easier to be social. I also focused (a bit) on meditation practice – something I still don't think I'm any good at (though I know I'm not supposed to say/think that). Whatever.


One of my favorite places to practice meditation 
(no need for fake ocean sounds!)


Being social:  Visiting Jodi, an ex-New Yorker who has lived in Pitsidia for many years.  And this is no special camera effect, it was during a weird weather pattern where dust from Libya descended on Crete and turned everything eerily orange!
With a new medication regimen, Matthias was starting to feel better and we planned his return to Crete so we could gather up our bikes/gear and head to Germany.  I took the opportunity to meet him at the airport in Athens because my father's cousin and fellow wanderlust devotee Mark was in town. Taking the overnight ferry from Crete, I arrived in Athens early in the morning, met Mark for a lovely long leisurely lunch and then set off for the airport to meet Matthias and catch the ferry back that night. Once back in Pitsidia, Matthias and I started to pack up for the trip back. 


Happy to be back together for our last days in Pitsidia
Though our plan was to take a leisurely bike ride through Italy, I steeled myself to the idea that we'd probably try to get to Germany as quickly as possible (by train) so Matthias could return to the doctor.  But I held out hope that he would feel well enough to tour a bit through Italy. Well, this time we got lucky: Matthias was feeling better, our bikes were in decent condition and the weather was cooperative. So, on April 2nd, we packed our bikes/stuff into our lovely landlady/hostess Irene's pickup truck and she drove usup the windy road to the 600-meter-high pass at Agia Varvara (as we were fearing a repeat of last year's bike breakdown) and we were off. We cruised downhill to Heraklion, got our tickets for the ferry and enjoyed a last afternoon out in Crete. Upon arrival the next morning in Piraeus, we easily got the suburban train to Kiato (to bypass busy Athens) and then rode the rest of the way (45km) to our campsite at Akrata Beach. The next day, we rode to another campsite closer to Patras, and the following day the rest of the way to the ferry. 
Irene (in the middle) after taking us up the mountain!

On the road again - in the Peloponnese

Campsite (and dinner) at our last stop before Patras.
After two nights on the ferry, we arrived in Venice at 7AM and checked in at a campsite conveniently located just down the road from the port.  We pitched our tent and caught a (smaller) ferry to the city center where we had a blast just wandering around and into  various wine cafes for little glasses of wine and little eats.  The next day, we set off toward Verona, on one of Italy's “velo" (bike) routes that I more or less successfully incorporated into my bike GPS. The route was lovely – taking us through Padua and Vicenza, mostly along canals and through some wine valleys. After three days of cycling, we arrived in Verona and headed up, up, up to the campsite we stayed at the last time, which was walking distance from the old town. We planned to stay two nights so we could re-visit the town (and the food). That worked out pretty well since it rained the next day and we wouldn't have wanted to pack up the tent and start riding again anyway. We had a great time in Verona, and got to see a little more of the town as we searched for a bike repair shop (just to install new brake pads for Matthias, nothing serious) and a laundromat. We went back to one of the restaurants we visited last year for dinner and it didn't disappoint!


Venice!


Venice!


Riding from Venice to Verona


Snack in Verona!

With full bellies we set off from Verona to Lago de Garda, known (far and wide) in Germany as Gardasee. Our first stop was a campsite near Garda, which was lovely, but the real treat was our second destination there – Torbole – on the north coast of the lake. Spectacular views from the campsite, and beautiful biking and hiking trails. It figures that the place is overrun by German (and some Austrian) tourists – many come with campers and mountain bikes (often E-mountain bikes, which must be super-cool!) The campsite was great, too, so we stayed for three nights (also because it rained one day) and did a day bike tour - without baggage! - and some hiking around the area.

Lago de Garda

Our campsite in Torbole

Gotta have an Aperol Spritz (at least all the German tourists drink 'em)

Hiking up along the lake

Mountain Matthias on the hike by Lago de Garda
Leaving Lago de Garda, we made our way toward Bolzano in South Tyrol. We found a great campsite on Lago de Caldaro (Kalterersee) near the town of Tramin (where Gewürztraminer grapes come from – who knew?) We stayed there for a few days before catching the train to Germany from nearby Bolzano. Unfortunately, it was still a bit early to ride our bikes over the Alps – most of the campsites were still closed. But we made the most of the journey, with a direct train, including reservations for the bikes and trailer, to Munich. I got a cheap room at a nice hotel we knew near the train station – complete with underground bike parking. And, as luck would have it, it was the middle of the spring festival in Munich. So we got to experience a mini-version of Oktoberfest. It was big enough for me, though, and the music was great! FUN!

Hike up the hill overlooking Lago de Caldaro


Walking around Lago de Caldaro


At one of the local wineries - the wine was as good as the view!


Festival in Munich!
The next day, we took a series of regional trains through Germany to Gommern, the site of our new home base! We took an apartment in a building owned by Matthias' family, and although for obvious reasons Matthias is wary about returning to his hometown (understandably!) the place is great. I didn't realize (or kind of forgot) that the apartment is part of an old Brewery. Pretty cool.  We've been busy getting things done – getting furniture, connecting to Internet, registering for healthcare, etc. As Matthias warned me, Germany is a bureaucratic nightmare, but I'm keeping an open mind. I have always wanted to live abroad and so I'm trying to stay open to the differences. Also, as I've considered myself a liberal for quite some time, I thought it's about time I put my money where my mouth is and pay up – higher taxes for more services, etc. Big government and all. As long as we still have enough funds left to travel, I think we'll be okay.  I'll try to observe and report. Here's one:  My German passport expires next year so I need to get a new one.  We asked at the town hall/registration office (Standesamt) how to renew, and I was told we need the current passport and birth certificate (or family certificate).  I asked why they need the extra documents when the passport has my birthdate in it.  Isn't a passport pretty much the most reliable ID there is?  Much easier to fake a birth certificate, I would think.  Anyway, the response I received from those I questioned - officials and others - was just a shrug.   I guess that's just the way it is.   No big deal as we have all the paperwork we need - just something I have to get used to, I suppose. 

The weather has been great so we have been able to enjoy our time here so far.  We are planning a bike tour next month and then I'm off to Barcelona to meet my mom and Laurene for a few days before their grand tour of Spain and Portugal. More on that next time.




View from our KITCHEN!


BBQing in our "yard" (part of the old brewery)

 
Who doesn't remember this classic song? No
better place to hear it than a festival in Magdeburg!

Sooo, the next post in this list will be the last one I posted in 2017.  If you haven't been to the blog in a while, or prefer reading posts chronologically, I recommend  recommend clicking on the following link:  2017 Year in Review.  Cheers.