Saturday, September 02, 2023

All's Well that Ends Well

From June 2023:

I am back in Gommern after five months away during what I am tempted to call The Winter of My Discontent, but in looking back I can see that along with all the stress and strife, there were indeed some highlights. Our rather ambitious plan for winter 2022-23 included helping mom move to her new apartment, selling the house she was living in, and renovating an apartment/condo we had been renting out for the past 15 years. Matthias would be doing most of the renovation so also planned to come to Florida for an extended period. That being the case, we had the bright idea to add a trip to Peru, where we first met 20 years ago, into the mix.  To accomplish all of this, I would travel to Florida alone in November, and then meet Matthias in Miami on December 6th so we could fly to Peru together on the 7th. What could go wrong?

Night sky from Gommern apartment

I arrived in Florida in mid-November and was greeted joyfully by mom, who was pretty exhausted after going through the hurricane (Ian) that hit Sarasota the previous month. Fortunately, she (and family and friends) are okay, and the house didn't sustain any damage. However, a tree fell in the yard knocking out power for eight days, which caused a lot of strife, and didn't make the house look as appealing for sale as pre-hurricane. But then again, we got off easy.

We enjoyed a week-long visit from Laurene over Thanksgiving week and visited mom's new digs, which wasn't quite ready yet. She was scheduled to move there on January 11th. Then, Mom and I set to work getting the house ready for sale. We engaged a fabulous realtor (whom we both probably developed secret crushes on) named Fernando. I kept referring to him as Francisco and mom kept calling him Ferdinand, but that's okay because he referred to mom as Sheila, I think. haha. Fernando gave us a list of things to do, and based on his expert advice, we packed things away and moved furniture around in order to show the house at its best. We got that done in time for me to bus down to Miami and meet Matthias on 6 December, one day before our flight to Lima. And in the meantime, I got to sneak away for a night in Lakeland for a visit and very long overdue catch-up with my dear old friend Leoni, and her (German!) husband Norbert.


Cocktails at Michaels on East

Lakeland with Leoni!!

Mom's new parking space!

Matthias and I met at the airport and then headed to Miami Beach for the night. We had a nice time walking around and then found a fun dive bar that had great chicken wings, which was a long-awaited treat for us both. The next day we boarded our flight to Lima, arriving late at night but finding our way relatively easily to our cute hotel in Miraflores, an upscale neighborhood on the coast. I had a pretty ambitious three-week tour planned: first Lima; then south to Paracas to explore a coastal preserve; up to Ica in the desert; over to Arica, Peru's second city; up to Puno on Lake Titicaca; and finally over to Cusco (where we first met, and the only city I've already visited) before flying home. So, I figured the first day we would just hang around Miraflores and get acclimated. We had a lovely walk along the coast and great lunch at the market, where we could see on TV that the president had just "dissolved congress." We shrugged that off and continued exploring, catching some world cup soccer and enjoying a nice ceviche and seafood dinner. We also caught the news that the Peruvian congress wasn't impressed with the president's power grab. He was promptly arrested.

Hotel in Miraflores, Lima

Parque del Amor, Miraflores

Parque del Amor, por supuesto!

Checking the news the next morning, it seemed large demonstrations were expected in the capital, and when I asked at the hotel reception if there would be difficulty getting into the Lima center, she replied that the entire area was closed to the public. Oh well, so much for seeing historic Lima. Spent another day hanging around Miraflores. The next morning, I got an email from the bus company that our bus to Paracas was cancelled because of demonstrations blocking traffic along the Panamericana, the only road connecting to points south. In fact, people were stranded for hours on the road (could have been us if we had left earlier.) I rebooked our bus for the following day and so we spent yet another day in Miraflores. Following the news, we learned that violence along the Panamericana was increasing, not subsiding, and the road wouldn't be open for days, at least. So we had a decision to make. Should we pack it up and go home, or fly up to Cusco and tour around from there? We decided on Cusco and flew in relatively easily. We were able to move up our guesthouse reservation and in fact were the only guests there at the time. The room was a bit noisy ("street noise" at night - although on small pedestrian street, we could hear people walking by and talking quite clearly) but we were able to get another, nicer room the next day. We set off to explore the town and environs, checking out the places we visited 20 years earlier while I made plans to explore further afield. Unfortunately, the universe had other ideas for us. The next day a general strike was declared. The airport, museums, markets and most shops were closed, transportation halted, and marches and demonstrations were planned in Cusco and all around. We were advised to stay in the tourist area around the hotel and not venture down to the main plaza, where demonstrations could become violent. We rebooked our flight home, hoping that the airport would reopen soon, and spent our days in repetition (probably nice for Matthias, in hindsight) going up the hill to the ruins, which were closed, but we could still hang around and the little souvenir shop with the cart selling choclo (boiled large corn) and enjoy a snack. Places for lunch were still, for the most part, open although on the second day they appeared closed because demonstrators vandalized places around the plaza that didn't observe the strike. Fortunately, there were some nice restaurants on our side of town where we could eat dinner as long as we finished up before staff needed to leave to get home by the 8pm curfew that was imposed later in the week.  We had the guesthouse to ourselves all week (and I felt really sorry for our host) as people either cancelled their trips or couldn't get there - a group of guests were among those stuck at Machu Picchu and couldn't get back. And there's not much more to write about the experience, except that we got a flight home the day the airport opened, spent the night in Miami and got back to Sarasota the next day (quite a bit later than expected after our scheduled bus was cancelled - of course!)

Another day in Miraflores

Where it all began in Cusco - found what we think is the bar where we met.
Looks quite different after 20 years, though!

Cusco

Saqsaywaman

Some restaurants were open!

Our digs for our extended stay in Cusco

The one place we could hike to everyday.


Okay, this one is from 20 years ago. Changed much?

Well, we really could have used a better vacation to prepare for what awaited us in Florida. 

Continued, September 2023

I had all intentions to write about the nightmare renovations of our condo, but kept putting it off so long that I suppose it's better to just let it rest. Suffice to say, my mother moved to her new digs at the Sarasota Bay Club, we sold the house where she lived, and renovated the condo my mom previously rented out so we (and family) would have a place to stay when visiting. We wrappred that all up by the end of March.

Sunroom at Mom's new digs!

But wait, I almost forgot to mention the bouts of wonderfulness we did experience in Florida amid the stress. Jen and Brenda paid a visit and (although I was sick) we had a great time hanging out together and spotting alligators. Matthias and I got to meet baby Jordan Belle when Chavi and Andrew came to visit and had a super time playing in the pool, etc!  Then Matthias went back home and I stayed for an extra month to try to finish up. During that time, I got to spend some time with Stu, who came to visit for a few days. Then Josh, Elisha and Iona made the trip to stay in the almost-done apartment (no kitchen yet) and we had a blast! 

Jordan and Family
With Jen and Brenda at Myaka State Park
Ione and Family
Stu's visit!


When I got back to Gommern we set to work finding a new place to live. And wonder of wonders, we immediately found a promising property right away in Passau. We contacted the landlord and within a few days took a train across the country (8+hrs!) to see the apartment. It seemed perfect, so we agreed to sign a two-year lease. This was in April, and the apartment would be available in July, which gave us plenty of (too much, in fact) time to prepare for the move. Another bout of stress, but the move went quite well and we are settled in our new home in Passau! It's even better than we hoped. 

One of the beautiful scenes in Passau!

So now that we're finally settled in (and I have a new bike!!) we are about to set off on our first (and last!) bike trip of the year. Exciting to head out our door and be in the Alps (by Salzburg) in three days. We're leaving tomorrow so I just wanted to finish this up so I can start the next post fresh! Servus!! 

Links to photo albums:

Peru + 20

Home Sweet Home (apartment photos)

Scenes from Home in Passau



Tuesday, April 25, 2023

Ich bin ein Wiener


Upon seeing this photo in the national history museum in Vienna, I couldn't help but think, what would JFK have said if he made his famous speech in Wien/Vienna instead of Berlin? And I couldn't get it out of my potty-brain so it gets to be the latest blog post title. My mother must be proud!

Speaking of mom, I'm currently on the train to Frankfurt to catch a plane to the USA where, among other things, I'm going to help her get ready for her big move. But more on that after it happens; I plan to use this train ride to write about our wonderful trip to meet Stu in Vienna! 


On October 24th Matthias and I boarded an early morning train to Nürnberg, where we decided to spend a night before continuing on to Vienna. It was a great plan, particularly because our train was delayed (but even if it wasn't the 10 hour trip to Vienna would have been a bit too much.) As it turned out, we arrived in Nürnberg at noon instead of 10:30 AM, so we were able to check in at our hotel and go right to lunch at a middle eastern cafe nearby. The food was good, and we assumed the restaurant was pretty authentic since we had never seen or heard of the dishes that we ate and nobody around us was speaking German. After a quick bite there, we walked into the old town of Nürnberg, where I wanted to take the tour of the labyrinth of tunnels that were used for various purposes over the centuries, most significantly to brew and store beer in the middle ages. The tour was nice, and so was walking around the old town. We ended up, of course, sampling the famous beer and eating a regional delight (Shäufele) for dinner. 

Nürnberg

Street in Nürnberg

The next morning, we grabbed breakfast (I had Nürnberger sausage, which I think tastes like Jimmy Dean sausage so perfect for breakfast!) and easily got our direct train to Vienna. We were even a few minutes early meeting Stu at the hotel where he had spent his first night in Vienna so we took some time to grab a cup of coffee before checking into our two bedroom apartment/hotel a couple of blocks away. After getting situated, we walked into Central Vienna--about a mile from our accommodation--to St. Stephen's Church, through the grand pedestrian plazas and the Hofburg palace. Behind the palace, the  Heldenplatz (heroes square), was chock full of tanks, tents, and various army fixtures. They were on display there because the next day (26 October) was a national holiday, and recruitment/national pride in the military was a theme, presumably due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine. We found it a bit creepy and mood-ruining, so continued on toward the scenic Rathaus and Votivkirche, which we took a look at from the outside. By then it was time for dinner, so we walked back through town to a Cellar restaurant, which was festive but the food was just okay (Matthias was a bit distressed that there were only tourists there.) And then we walked home, where, after appreciating the reproductions of Gustav Klimt art hanging throughout the apartment, Stu and I found a way to stream "Woman in Gold" (the film and then a documentary) on the smart TV in his bedroom. Good intro to Vienna!

Hoffburg palace

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Taking a break in central Wien

The next day (Austrian National Day), we got transit passes and took the Ringstrasse bahn (the ring road tram) that took us past a bunch of massive historic buildings. We got off at the Rathaus and walked over to the Votivkirche (Votive Church) to have a look inside at the beautiful stained glass windows. We then happened upon a traditional Austrian restaurant (crowded with locals, to Matthias' delight) and enjoyed a leisurely lunch. Then on to Kaisergruft (crypt), where we gawked at all the dead royals including, most famously, Sissi and Franz Josef. After that we went to the Secession museum, checked out the Karlskirche (from the outside) and walked back home. We tried a local restaurant for dinner (meh) and had a relaxing evening in the apartment watching the Netflix series the Empress (about Sissi and the Hapsburgs) to stay in the mood.

Kaisergruft


Klimt murals at Secession Museum - the highlight
(and only part of the museum we liked.)

Ok, the outside of the Secession Museum was cool, too.

On day three we started out walking about the grounds at Schönbrunn palace. Had a lovely lunch at an outdoor cafe there and then walked over to the Vienna Zoo! It was crowded, but really nice. Somehow after that Stu had enough energy to do the castle tour while Matthias and I ducked into a wine bar. We caught the subway back to hotel for short rest and then back downtown to dinner. Luckily the place I found on the internet was closed, so we ended up at the Rathaus Keller, which was really lovely. After dinner we wandered over to the hall where we had tickets for a Classical Viennese concert. It was wonderful. Stu and I were both deeply enamored with with the clarinetist and Matthias managed to stay awake and even enjoy the music, though he couldn't help but mutter about how touristy it was.

Schönbrunn palace grounds

Pretty day by Schönbrunn Palace

Giraffes at the Zoo!


I think I might have pushed some kiddies out of the way
to get this picture of the lions! Sorry!

Fabulous dinner at the Rathaus Keller

The next morning, we had tickets to see a practice at the Spanish Riding School, but first we took a walk around Hofburg. It was nice to see the Heldenplatz without the military show - it looked totally different and elegant! We strolled through the gardens and back to the riding school rehearsal, which was interesting, and where Matthias enjoyed friendly conversation with an American, who, let's just say, doesn't share our views. We then went to a traditional Viennese cafe, Cafe Frauenhuber, for lunch and dessert and then on to the Austrian national history museum at the Neue Burg (wing of the palace which also houses the national library.) The exhibits were great and the building itself was gorgeous!  Once we got back home, Stu was too full for dinner but Matthias and I ventured out again to the restaurant where Stu ate on his first night in town - it was great!

Spanish Riding School. Photographs weren't allowed
so I didn't get a shot of the horses.

Yummy cafe! 

One of the halls in the National Library

On our final day in Wien we started out with a walk through our neighborhood (new Jewish quarter) over to the local market (Karmelitermarkt). Then we took a lovely Saturday stroll over to the Prater, an historic park/amusement park and had lunch at the busy biergarten in the park. Matthias and I shared a huge Haxe/pork knuckle (called Stelze in Austrian German). Then we tried to walk that off by heading further through the park and to the Hundertwasser village, an area designed by the quirky Austrian architect whose stuff reminds me of Gaudi (he also designed a building in Magdeburg.) We then made our way slowly back to the apartment for packing and preparing for early departure the next day. Stu was thrilled to have scored a seat on the non-stop back to NYC, and his later departure meant that he could take a train to the airport. We went out to the local restaurant for our last dinner and the next morning we were up and out early on our way home.

Prater!

Lunch at the Prater.

Bathrooms at the Hundertwasser Village - Funky!

On the way back home, Matthias and I stopped over in Prague (again, to break up the trip.) It was a five hour train ride which got us there around lunchtime. We were able to check into our charming hotel before heading over to a very busy and trendy self-service butcher shop/meat restaurant. After lunch, we took a scenic walk around Prague, trying to avoid the throngs of tourists in the major historic/scenic areas. We did get a nice view of the castle, walked down some pretty avenues and stopped by the Kafka statue before settling down for delicious Czech beer and some mediocre food, The next morning, we boarded our train/bus combo to Dresden, and because we were booked flexibly on regional trains for the rest of the way home, we decided to stop for lunch in Dresden at an outpost of one of our favorite haunts, Watzke, near the train station. It was a lovely day and we had a good time reminiscing and thinking about a possible future in Dresden before catching our train home. Just one missed connection and we still got home at about 7pm. Not bad at all.

 

Charming "old school"  hotel in Prague
Kafka statue

Iconic view of the castle


lunch at Watzke!!
Full photo album is here

Next installment to come soon, I hope. As soon as I come up with a catchier title than "Winter from Hell" for my report on winter 2022-23! 

Saturday, October 15, 2022

Tour de France....et plus

War, hurricanes, COVID, inflation/recession, polarization. Winter is coming. I'm feeling overwhelmed but making myself write a blog post because I haven't done so in a while and maybe if I focus on the fun times over the last few months, I'll feel better about the challenges ahead. And if not, at least I'll be up-to-date on blog posting.  When I pulled up the draft of the last post I started back in June, it had only one sentence, but a good one to start with anyway:

Bonjour! We just returned from our first sojourn with bikes in France. 

It was a rocky start. As we traveled with our bikes and gear on the train across Germany to Freiburg, Matthias discovered that his gear mechanism (a fancy one, of course) was leaking oil. We headed straight from the train to a bike shop in Freiburg to see if there was anything to be done. Unfortunately, the mechanic said it would require sending the part to the manufacturer to diagnose, something we didn't have time for. We weren't clear on how risky it would be to take off on our tour, but we headed to our first campsite (near Freiburg) where we would decide what to do. We had been to the area (Kaiserstuhl) before and it was one of our favorites. Also, rain was expected, so we decided to stay for a couple of days. We enjoyed our stay, riding around the vineyards without our packs and in the end decided to make our way into France and see how the bike would respond. 


Vineyards and wine, and we weren't even in France yet!

Great decision! We entered France the next day and rode to Mulhouse (pronounced Mull-ooose, but I kept thinking of Bart Simpson's best friend) and from there along the Doubs river through Belfort to Besançon. We stayed two nights in Besançon so we could visit the walled city and enjoy our first meal in a French restaurant. It was lovely! And our first impression of France was great. The bikeways were beautiful and well-marked, the campsites were nice and affordable, and the supermarket cheese sections were jaw-dropping! We figured we could get used to this! 

French countryside 
famous lion statue in Belfort

Lunch in Besançon

Wine bar in Besançon 

From Besançon we deviated from our original route. Since we weren't sure if Matthias' bike would hold up the entire trip, we veered off toward Beaune (instead of proceeding directly to Leon) to make sure we'd get to see it. We stayed in the campsite there for two days and enjoyed exploring the narrow (and very touristy) streets, a fun wine tasting and a great dinner at a restaurant recommended by Jennifer and Brenda. Leaving Beaune, we were treated to a lovely ride through the vineyards, down along a canal to the Saone River, which we followed to a nice campsite in Tournus. At that point we were in the middle of a heatwave, which made us reconsider heading down to Lyon. The bikeway to Lyon was reported to be in bad shape and riding around big cities with our packed bikes isn't all that much fun, so we decided to save Lyon for another time. We stayed an extra night in Tournus (actually one of my favorite stops on the trip) and took a day trip south to check out Macon. 

Wine tasting in Beaune
More wine

Lunch stop in Macon
Supermoon at Tournus campsite

From Tournus we started riding back north along the Saone through a bunch of lovely towns/villages and what must have been hundreds of locks. One morning I counted 30 in a span of just 20km. Our stops ranged from tiny off-the-beaten-track campsites in small villages to major tourist destinations. My favorite on this stretch was probably the town of Gray, which didn't sound all that appealing (and we only stopped there because another campsite was closed) but it had a nice municipal campsite, a pretty church on a hill, and a friendly wine bar. We also enjoyed the town of Epinal, our first town on the Moselle River, where we finally got to eat foie gras d'oie at a lovely local restaurant.  After that, we rode along the Moselle (more locks!) through Nancy and wedged ourselves into a very busy campsite at a very scenic bend in the Moselle.  Then it was on to Metz where we visited the Saturday market and had a lovely a farewell-to-France meal. Our last campsite in France the next day was a nice surprise, beautifully situated in the town of Sierck-les-Bains. 

Sunset in Gray
One of the many locks along the way.

Market in Metz

View from our last campsite in France

Although we were leaving France, we still had about 10 days to get to Frankfurt for our train home. We continued up the Moselle River (Mosel in German) through a bit of Luxembourg to the mouth of the Saar river at Konz. We then followed the Saar, which was incredibly scenic, passing through Saarburg and the Saarschleife (dramatic bend in the river) to Saarbrücken. We stayed an extra day here to check out the city (meh) and took a quick ride further up the Saar back across the border to a supermarket in France where we could buy Foie. :-) Then we headed over the hills and along the Nahe river to the Rhein and followed the Rhein down to where it meets the Main river to our last campsite near Mainz, outside of Frankfurt. We still had two full days before our reserved train so on day one we went to Frankfurt, where we enjoyed local treats of green sauce and apfel wein at a delightful restaurant. On day two we explored Wiesbaden (also meh) by bike and visited the tomb of the Red Baron, which was kind of cool. All I could think about was Snoopy, but I didn't share that with Matthias. On our travel day, we made it back to Frankfurt in plenty of time to have lunch (more green sauce!) at get our train home We had reserved spaces for our bikes on the long distance express train to Leipzig, but then needed to take a regional train (where bikes are transported without reservations as long as space is available) back to Gommern. Well, because of the new 9 Euro ticket--a summer special which allowed month-long unlimited travel on local/regional transport for 9 Euros--the last train was PACKED and we were very lucky to get our bikes onboard. We made it home unscathed, but the 9 Euro ticket had implications for us throughout the summer....

Saarburg
On the Nahe river in Bad Kreuznach

Green sauce and apfel wein in Frankfurt!


Link to Tour de France Photo Album

And then some more summer fun! For Matthias' birthday, we went back to Grossarl, near Salzburg. We celebrated his birthday there last year and liked it so much that for this year I booked a longer stay at the same apartment-hotel, and got long-distance train reservations for us and our bikes months in advance. Well, unfortunately, the wonderful 9 Euro ticket, which was intended as a relief for commuters (and travelers) over the summer, made the regional trains so full that it was nearly impossible to bring bikes aboard. And we needed to take regional trains on the first and last legs of the journey. So, it was either cancel the trip or figure out an alternative. We decided to go anyway and rent e-bikes there, which was hella expensive. The train ride was indeed stressful--delays due to increased summer travel in part due to the 9 Euro ticket--but once we got there we relaxed into the wondrous natural beauty of the alps and had an amazing time exploring the network of bike trails that brought us up to scenic mountain huts serving delicious snacks. It was truly fabulous!

Highlights, including birthday lunch

New friends

Scenic point

Link to Grossarl Birthday Photo Album

And THEN in August, it was time for my mom"s and (my aunt) Laurene's visit to Germany! We booked a 11-day river cruise/tour on the Mosel and another 10 days to visit Frankfurt and Gommern. I tried to keep it relatively simple and tone down my impulses to try to see as much as possible, so we ended up with an itinerary that included three days in Frankfurt, five days in Gommern, a stop in Hannover and then a train to Baden Baden to meet the tour. We stumbled and bumbled our way through but had lots of laughs and a wonderful time! In Frankfurt, we did a couple of Jewish-related tours (my grandmother grew up there) and had some fun nights out (including drinks up high and green sauce at the restaurant Matthias and I visited a couple of months earlier.) We took a train to Gommern (very crowded regional portion from Leipzig to Gommern due to the 9 Euro ticket, but we managed) and took it easy, hanging out and enjoying veggies from my mother-in-law's garden, as well as taking a few excursions to see the local sites. Then we went on to spend one night in Hannover, where we met up with Matthias' cousin Katja and her adorable son Paul. And finally on to Baden Baden for the third portion of our trip - a luxury cruise on the Mosel and Rhein. The cruise was altered because of low water levels in the Rhein, meaning an extra day on land and another morning of packing up and transferring, but the whole experience was marvelous. I really need to do a trip report on it (too much to include here) but stops included Strasbourg, Koblenz, Cochem, Luxemburg City, Trier and Rudesheim, and the cruising through the wine valleys was spectacular.  The cruise ended in Frankfurt where mom and Laurene flew home and I got a train back to Gommern.

Eiskaffee in Frankfurt
Meeting Katja and Paul in Hannover
Luxembourg City
Cruisin the Mosel

From a castle overlooking the Mosel

The night our server stopped asking if we wanted red or white wine and just started pouring both!

Link to full Frankfurt/Gommern/Cruise Trip Photo Album 

And wasn't it thoughtful of me to bring a Gift (German definition) back to Matthias? The day after I got home I had a scratchy throat, and took a COVID test (negative), but the next day felt much worse and took another (positive) test. Ugh. So three days down for the count and two more starting to feel better when Matthias got his scratchy throat. We're fine, but it did mess up our plans to do a bike trip across Germany to Emsland and the coast. I feel pretty bad about that because as I was out carousing with my mom and Laurene, Matthias was waiting around for his turn. So, since we lost two weeks to illnesses, we decided to take a shorter tour following new routes to some old favorites: Naumburg and Dresden. Being the middle of September, it was starting to get dark earlier and was also unseasonably rainy and COLD (after a very dry and warm summer!) We had those and other challenges; I think I strained my Achilles tendon (anyway, my calf/ankle hurt) and my rear brake stopped working by the time we got to Dresden. But, we managed to have quite a bit of fun visiting the Naumburg wine valley and then our old haunts in Dresden. We even stayed an extra night at the Radebeul canoe club campsite near Dresden to attend the first night of a big wine festival, which was great! And then we battled the elements on our way home.

 

Vineyard "weingarten" in Naumburg
On a particularly dark and dreary day, we happened upon
Friedrich Nietzsche's birthplace and grave. Fitting! 

On the carousel at the wine festival in Radebeul

And now I am up to date. I did it! And I do feel better!