My Inner G(r)eek

We are in Crete!


When I last wrote, the ferry from Italy had just deposited us in Patras on the Peloponnese Peninsula from where we would pedal to the Port of Piraeus (oh how I love a little alliteration).  We began with threats of rain, but the good weather held and there was significant wind at our backs (not such a big deal with ebikes, but always nice!)  So it was a lovely ride along the coast to our first campsite at Akrata Beach.  We remembered it from our stay nearly eight years ago on our way back to Germany from Crete.  It was still nice and the weather was a lot better than in April 2009, so we stayed two nights and enjoyed some time biking along the coast and spending a little time on the pebbly beach.

Sunrise on Akrata Beach

Mew friend on Akrata Beach (that was actually a typo, but now....pun intended!)

As we arrived at the next campsite in Korinthos, we were trying to decide whether to ride our bikes or take the train to Pireaus (near Athens) where we would catch the overnight ferry to Crete. We don't like taking trains with all of our gear (especially the bike trailer) but we weren't sure how busy the roads to Pireaus would be.   We also heard that the campsite along the way was awful - cold, saltwater showers (!?) and  lots of traffic noise.  Then we learned that there was a two-day maritime strike.  So not only could we not ride our bikes to Pireaus the next day (as the ride involved two short ferries) but we had to spend an extra night in Korinthos because there would be no ferry to Crete for the next two days anyway.  No problem, though; we spent a nice day riding around ancient Korinth and the area, as well as visiting the train station to strategize how to best manage with the bikes.

Ancient Corinth

On the subway in Athens

Turned out the train ride was easy (says Judy) and we made it to Pireaus early enough to enjoy a nice lunch, buy some wine/groceries for the ferry and chill out at the port until it was time to leave (in the evening).  With our bikes, we got to be one of the first ones on board, so we were able to find a place to charge the bike batteries and scope out a good sleeping area on deck.  The trip was good.

Sleeping place on the ferry deck

Before sunrise - early arrival in Heraklion, Crete

We arrived in Crete in the town of Heraklion at about 7am and had to make the 65 km ride to Pitsidia - or a campsite a few kilometers away in Matala - over a mountain range.  I was worried that our batteries or motors wouldn't make it, but it turned out just fine, and we rolled into Matala well before lunchtime.  Unfortunately, the campsite, though beautiful (and cheap!), was extremely sandy and the wind picked up in the afternoon - picking up the sand with it - making it even less ideal.  The original plan was to stay at the campsite until we found an apartment, but that plan was more or less blown away.  Or perhaps I should say the answer, my friend, was blowing in the wind - yes we were camping in the shadow of caves once inhabited by Bob Dylan (Nobel Prize winner/snubber!) and others in the '60s.

The famous caves/coast, Matala

Above Komos beach - by Pitsidia 

We found a place to stay for the last week of September in Pitsidia at what we thought was the rock-bottom price of €28 per night, but then the next day we found a nice apartment (but not until November - after the tourists leave) for €300 per month.  The host there directed us to her niece who rented us a room (with kitchen outside) for €300 for the month of October.  That's where we are now (or where we were when I started writing this).  Great room, but the internet/cell service is dodgy.  Still, compared to eight years ago when we had to walk a couple of miles to the internet cafe to make contact with the outside world, walking up the street to send an email or make a Whatsapp call is a luxury.

The terrace outside our October digs

Healthy eating in Pitsidia

It's been fun reacquainting ourselves with Crete and Pitsidia.  There are still a lot of tourists here - mostly German - many of whom visit often for extended vacations (weeks/months).  But the tourist season is about to end and the town is beginning to empty out.  By the beginning of November, most of the restaurants will be closed, but a few stay open for the winter.   Not too many people stay for the winter, but we've already recognized some people from last time we were here.  Not too much seems to have changed, although some of our favorite places/people are no longer here. The couple we really liked who ran the local "pub" moved away and the pub is no more.  Another favorite, a Cafenion (traditional Greek coffee house/meeting place) run by a woman we knew also closed - although she's still here running her guesthouse.   We'll see what the winter holds.

Enjoying a beer at the beach in Kalamaki
(while the restaurants are still open)

Great setting - calling Shirley Valentine!
(thinking often of that movie...)

We've been exploring the area by bike, and the ebikes make a lot of interesting destinations a lot more accessible.  We found some beautiful roads leading into the mountains that we probably wouldn't have conquered without the battery power.  We've also been riding to the local weekly markets for fresh produce (and souvlaki and beer, of course).  Also during October, I spent a lot of afternoons on the beach.  And now that the weather is starting to get cooler, we're exploring some of the back roads on foot.

Souvlaki in Timbaki - at the market

Making the Souvlaki

Matthias riding with the sheep

Yup, we rode that road

My favorite spot on Komos beach

Oh, and getting in touch with my inner geek: learning "code" has been on my to-do list for a while, so I've been using the dodgy internet when we have it to take an online course. Was hoping to add a splashy feature to the blog using my newfound knowledge,

but all I've learned to do so far is format text.

(and that was hard!)

And finally, of course we voted. Sent the absentee ballots a few weeks ago and received confirmation that they were received in Florida.  I'm sure I don't need to explain who we voted for.  Please, please, please let her win! Next installment from the next chapter in American history - hope I'm not censored!

Absentee Ballot